Coming from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech, the atmosphere that Essaouira offered was a true contrast. I would suggest catching either a CTM bus or a Supratours bus as opposed to the overcrowded and worn-down public charter buses (advice I wish I'd heeded before hopping on a public bus that took five hours to complete a normally two-and-a half hour journey). Once we arrived though, the refreshing smog-free ocean air, laid-back locals, and buildings matching the colour of the sky soothed away any feelings of stress or restlessness. The place was a perfect refuge from the overstimulation of city life.
Our hostel was a favourite among reviewers on HostelWorld.com and I was not disappointed. It was hidden in a labyrinth of tiny streets but local bystanders were friendly and eager to help and point us down the right direction. A few cute mischievous kids were out playing on the street and glanced at us with curiosity.
My customary cup of nous-nous. Half-half milky Moroccan coffee.
And a cheerful alleyway of beautifully woven carpets.
After obtaining an obscure map from the hostel staff (through no fault of theirs, I think it's beyond the skills of any mapmaker to chart the disarray of streets and alleys within the medina), we set off towards the fishing port and beach. We wandered into several shops along the way and acquired a collection of postcards and souvenirs.
We paid 10 dirhams (about one US dollar) for admission to the ancient ramparts guarding the city.
This small city was actually once called "Souira" which means "The small fortress". We climbed up Skala du Port, an old Portuguese tower which houses impressive European cannons from several centuries ago.
We soaked in the relentless sounds of ocean waves and seagulls and the sight of majestic ancient walls.
There were abundant cafes and restaurants of freshly grilled seafood along the pier. It was fantastic breezy weather for enjoying our combination seafood platter outdoors on the patio. All the seafood tasted fresh and was lightly grilled and seasoned.
On the beach, there were teenagers playing soccer, families unwinding for the weekend, and camel rides for tourists.
Later on, we did some window shopping in the medina and saw some quirky artistic creations such as animals resourcefully formed from a mix of tools, kitchen utensils, and teapots.
In the evenings, this adorable restaurant offered live music, not the kind where you sit back as a spectator but the kind that has you up and dancing with the musicians (who also happen to be the servers) and chatting with the owners and adventurous ex-pats. The interior was eccentrically decorated and dimly lit with candles. It was a small and cozy space that encouraged interaction amongst patrons.
This was my favourite part of the day. The opportunity to hear other peoples' stories is not only inspiring but it has always given me a sense of deep connection and humanity. It bonds you to someone who has lived a completely different life and sheds light on their hopes, fears, and dreams. You often share laughs over personal stories of awkward blunders and mishaps that have occurred during your travels. I think that when people are on the road and separated from their past and the familiar, that's when they have their hearts open. My time in Essaouira felt so utterly carefree and genuine; it was the characterization of what traveling means to me.
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