My customary cup of nous-nous. Half-half milky Moroccan coffee.





After obtaining an obscure map from the hostel staff (through no fault of theirs, I think it's beyond the skills of any mapmaker to chart the disarray of streets and alleys within the medina), we set off towards the fishing port and beach. We wandered into several shops along the way and acquired a collection of postcards and souvenirs.


We paid 10 dirhams (about one US dollar) for admission to the ancient ramparts guarding the city.
This small city was actually once called "Souira" which means "The small fortress". We climbed up Skala du Port, an old Portuguese tower which houses impressive European cannons from several centuries ago.



There were abundant cafes and restaurants of freshly grilled seafood along the pier. It was fantastic breezy weather for enjoying our combination seafood platter outdoors on the patio. All the seafood tasted fresh and was lightly grilled and seasoned.


On the beach, there were teenagers playing soccer, families unwinding for the weekend, and camel rides for tourists.


Later on, we did some window shopping in the medina and saw some quirky artistic creations such as animals resourcefully formed from a mix of tools, kitchen utensils, and teapots.


In the evenings, this adorable restaurant offered live music, not the kind where you sit back as a spectator but the kind that has you up and dancing with the musicians (who also happen to be the servers) and chatting with the owners and adventurous ex-pats. The interior was eccentrically decorated and dimly lit with candles. It was a small and cozy space that encouraged interaction amongst patrons.

This post is archived under Beach, Food, Morocco, Travel

I received all sorts of discrepant advice before I was leaving as to what constituted appropriate attire for female travellers in this part of the world. There are many factors to keep in mind such as cultural respect, weather conditions, and discouraging unwanted attention. The US Department of State website mentions that verbal harassment of female travellers is fairly common in the country but for the most part, harmless. The environment and type of people you will encounter also varies significantly between different cities and more rural areas. Now, I saw a few tips on abiding strictly with long-sleeved loose tops and loose-fitted pants but I felt that this was often unnecessary.

Here are some basic tips based on my own experience:
1. Knees length or longer shorts/dresses, shoulders covered, and necklines should not dip too low. Don't wear anything particularly flashy or skimpy if you prefer not to get catcalls.
2. No clothes with loud phrases or symbols of sex or violence. This is rather instinctive for volunteers working with children anyway.
3. Bring/buy a few scarves/shawls. They were great for amping up an outfit and convenient for situations where more coverage felt necessary.
4. My personal preference for daily outfits was basic black leggings matched with long tops. This was the most agreeable outfit in the sweltering temperature and was also comfortable for a high level of physical activities. The weather was too hot for jeans.
5. Cotton is the most breathable material and hassle-free to clean and hand wash.
6. Sneakers, flats, and sandals were all acceptable as long as they were easy to walk in.
7. Sunglasses were essential (protection from UV rays and no accidental eye contact). I have mixed feelings about big floppy hats which are great for keeping out the sun but simultaneously draw attention to you as a tourist.
8. Many of the volunteers wore maxi dresses or knee length dresses paired with shawls for evening attire and encountered no problems.
9. Tank tops, short-shorts, and miniskirts should be reserved only for beaches and hotel pools. Wear a more substantial outfit when you are traveling to and from these activities.

Demeanor and behaviour
I frequently ventured about Marrakech, both in the medina and in new town on my own and was able to blend in fairly comfortably. Most people were quite polite and helpful. In fact, I found that if I wasn't in a loud pack of excited volunteers, it was easier to avoid undesirable comments and attention. However, during evenings and any time after dark, I would still say it's best to bring along at least one or two companions. I found that most locals in Essaouira were also friendly and unaggressive. It was in Fes that I had a more intense experience and encountered persistent harassment. I didn't stray away from fellow traveller companions out of safety precautions there.
Overall, if you maintain a respectful attitude and a good sense of humour, these daily encounters are not difficult to handle.

This post is archived under Morocco, Travel

I nearly missed my opportunity to visit this beautiful Berber village when I came down with an obnoxious sinus/ear infection during my trip. Fortunately, I was feeling mostly recovered and very determined by the time the scheduled trip rolled around during my last week in Marrakech.  I couldn't be more glad that I had chosen to go. Our adventure began with an hour and a half ride on a city bus from Marrakech. Then upon arrival in the village, we were split into 2 groups to squeeze into this bus on the right (which appears to have just come out of a safari). It took us on small uneven mountainous paths, sharply curved and slanted roads to a few secluded mud houses until we finally arrived at the cultural center, a tranquil and cozy looking house. The owner and staff greeted us immediately and were incredibly warm and hospitable. We were welcomed into their traditional village routine and introduced to the art of making the perfect pot of Moroccan mint tea.


The large tagines were shared amongst tables of 4 volunteers each and there was a peaceful quiet as everyone concentrated on the hearty and mouthwatering meal in front of them. After we had all stuffed ourselves to satisfaction, we were given a couple hours to unwind and explore.

In the evening, a few of the staff offered to take us on a quick tour of the area. This "brief" tour would be more accurately described as a two hour hike through surrounding trails and village paths. I felt like I returned to an era of the past where life was simple and toddlers and young children could play in the streets safely, riding their tricycles and exploring nature without constant supervision and fear. I was moved by the calm and untouched way of the village, the sense of community and protection.



When we returned, it was after dusk and a couple puppies from the center welcomed us at the door. This is slightly unusual in Morocco, a region and culture that is more dominated by cats.

We were soon called to dinner which had been generously prepared for us, heaping servings of couscous and vegetables on communal dishes. There was a feeling of warmth and family even though most of us had known each other for only a few days.

After dinner, it was time for the long anticipated tea-making competition! Each volunteer was seated at an individual table and presented with a tray that held a tea pot, tea leaves, two tea glasses, a bowl of mint leaves, and large sugar cubes. If at any time during the competition you felt that you were short of an ingredient, you could signal for staff to bring more.

Here is one of the judges of the competition, cautiously sipping from each glass. She didn't comment during the process so we held our breaths trying to read her inscrutable expression after each sip. Eventually, the points were tallied and I was thankful not be in last place for which the honor of washing the dinner dishes had been reserved for.


Afterwards, the staff and some locals came by and the night became filled with games, music, drumming, and dancing. It felt like a joyful celebration of simply being present and being alive.

This post is archived under Food, Morocco, Travel

We started near the drop-off sight where there was a market selling fresh fruit, various dangling meats, and random knick knacks like hats and knock-off watches. There were donkeys everywhere. These creatures can be seen silently pulling huge loads and carts, fetching water, carrying people, and tied to random posts and trees.  It never occurred to me until my visit in this country that these animals live such harsh lives. But in a place where physical labour is a central part of everyday human life, the donkeys are an important method of transportation and survival.

This post is archived under Morocco, Travel

Location: Morocco

Some projects were close enough that volunteer coordinators would simply arrive at the volunteer house and walk us to the location. Others required a trip to the nearby (about 10-15 minute walk away) taxi rank from our volunteer riad. We would then squeeze in - 6 passengers per taxi! The taxis in this country seem to operate the way buses in North America do. If they are not carrying the full/over capacity of 6 passengers, they will stop and randomly pick up and drop off people on the drive. The cost of these rides is very cheap, at around 5 dirham or 50 cents per person. On days visiting Tamsloht village, we would walk to the bus station and catch a bus for approximately the same cost.
 I always tried to have a litre bottle of water with me on all projects. Otherwise, absorbing all the heat from commuting and frequent outdoor activities with the kids could leave you easily dehydrated and sick. A small daypack with lots of spare change, tissues (incase you visit a public restroom that doesn't provide it), and hand-sanitizer would be the other daily essentials.
I loved getting to know the kids and their personalities. It was impressive to see these spectacularly well-behaved nursery school kids. After they finished their animal mask creations, they had snack time and promptly helped set up and throw out garbage on their own. I'll overlook the expected fighting over crayons and papers, of-course.
Despite the cramped gross-motor space, they jumped and danced around happily. Many of us tried to sing and clap along while wielding our cameras to capture the incredible cuteness.

This post is archived under Kids, Morocco, Travel